| Editor's note: Over the last five years, Daniela Galarza built this Eat Voraciously newsletter community with her recipes, cooking prowess, curiosity and open-hearted prose. She will continue that work in her new newsletter on Substack. You can sign up to follow along here. A few months ago, The Post's Food team sat down for a routine brainstorm. We bounced around the room, checking in on the various recipes in development and more we had yet to tackle. As the ideas began to build, everyone kept coming back to one thing: stews. By the time the meeting was over, our three recipe developers each had an assignment. With the dreary days of winter not far on the horizon, we figured, the comfort of a warm bowl of stew would be more than welcome. How little did we know we'd need that comfort ourselves. That trio of recipe writers — assistant recipes editor Olga Massov, and staff writers Aaron Hutcherson and Daniela Galarza — were among The Post colleagues we lost last week. What we envisioned as a cohesive package of recipes (Stew Week!) will now be among their last work published as Post staffers. Instead of editing their own words about how and why they developed these dishes, I am left to tell you about them — and the wonderful people behind the bylines. | | | | Aaron Hutcherson is the most talented recipe developer I've worked with. I could always tell the instant an idea clicked with him. He'd tilt his head to the side, purse his lips and exaggeratedly raise his eyebrows. And that was that. As our weekly Dinner in Minutes columnist, Aaron excelled at packing incredible flavors into dishes that could be on the table in less than an hour — often much less. He specializes in unexpected flavor combinations (Pork Chops With Strawberries and Port), unique riffs on classics (Cantaloupe Gazpacho) and all-in-one meals (Apple, Sausage and White Bean Skillet). He cooks chicken better than anyone I know. And he's fearless about going where others would never dare, as he did in his new Ground Beef Bourguignon. Aaron would be the first to admit this is a very nontraditional take, but a worthwhile one. Ground meat is more affordable than many other cuts, and because it cooks so quickly, it delivers deep flavor with minimal time and effort. Otherwise, this recipe shares many of the characteristics of the French classic: bacon, mushrooms, carrots and pearl onions, all pulled together with a glossy red-wine-based sauce. "I'm not mad about it," was his predictably humble verdict after he tested it. I knew it was a winner. Daniela Galarza brought the kind of humanity to her writing and recipe development that reminded us all that food was about so much more than eating. As our Eat Voraciously newsletter author, she greeted readers each morning in their inboxes, giving them something to think about, something to aspire to and something to feel. Her personal approach to these daily missives endeared her to her many fans who already miss her. Daniela also brought her knowledge and experience as a personal chef and pastry chef to the many recipes she wrote for us. Her desserts took Thanksgiving staples to new heights (literally, in the case of her Mile High Apple Pie). Her soups (Corn Chowder With Barbecue Sauce Butter, Tortilla Soup Verde) blew me away with their brilliant simplicity. Her ability to coax vivid flavors, and memories, out of humble ingredients with a hint of something special inspired readers. That's what flitted through my head when I tried her Chickpea, Potato and Tomato Stew. Tomato paste and a pinch of saffron light up this vegetarian dish with their rich color and aroma. But what puts the whole thing over the top are the frizzled leeks, which are first crisped in a bit of olive oil, then removed from the pot and used as a topping at the very end. Olga Massov, the yin to my yang, has taught me more about recipe editing and writing than anyone else. Her knowledge of ingredients, techniques and recipe style is unmatched. But most importantly, Olga is the kind of person who shows her love through cooking. As a working mom, that was sometimes easier said than done when it came to feeding her family (and, with her boundless generosity, us). With relatable humility and care, she shared her own strategies for how to get a meal on the table that was both manageable and impressive. We consider her our sheet-pan queen, as in her Sheet Pan Lamb Chops Scottadito and Sheet Pan Quesadilla. (She co-authored a whole cookbook devoted to the humble kitchen tool.) You'll find that same savvy in her 20-minute Skillet Turkey Kielbasa With Lentils and Kale and Slow Cooker Braised Beef, as well as her new Chicken Stew With Shiitakes, Soy and Lemon. This umami-rich braise, which gets its depth from a combination of dried mushrooms and soy sauce, tastes like it took hours to simmer, when in fact, it will be on your table in just one, half of which is completely hands-off. We recruited Ellie Krieger, who continues to write her Nourish column for us, to develop a seafood-based dish to round out the package. She came back with Brazilian-Style Shrimp Stew, a take on a traditional moqueca, featuring a coconut-milk-based broth punctuated by garlic, cayenne pepper, sweet paprika and lime juice. Thanks to the quick-cooking shrimp, the entire dish is ready to eat in half an hour. In my most panic-stricken moments over the last week and a half, I've tried to slow my thoughts. Tell myself to think about what I can taste, touch, see and smell — the richness of a stew, the feel of the warm bowl between my hands, the swirl of my spoon in the whirling eddy of the liquid, the aromas I breathe in deeply. I can think of no greater show of appreciation to Aaron, Daniela and Olga than to make and share these recipes, and so many of the other dishes they've put their hearts and souls into. One programming note: I am continuing to host our live weekly cooking chat every Thursday at 11 a.m. Eastern. Submit your questions now, then join me in real time. |
0 comments:
Post a Comment